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Domaine de la Motte 2006 Tasting Notes

Coteaux du Layon Rochefort 2005
Anjou blanc Clos des Belles Mères 2005
Anjou-Villages rouge 2004

To be a vigneron in Anjou takes tremendous dedication, versatility and strength of character. While most winemakers produce one or two wines per year, those in the Anjou region can be responsible for up to a dozen different cuvées. The harvest in most wine regions lasts for two or three weeks, for Gilles Sorin and his colleagues in Anjou, it lasts months. Gilles produces the full range; dry and sweet whites, rosés and reds from his 18 hectares of vines around the village of Rochefort sur Loire. Over the last decade or more he has built a strong reputation, and become established as one of the region’s finest winemakers. He has won a multitude of awards both here and in France, culminating in his Gold Medal at the International Wine Challenge in 2004.

Although that medal was awarded for his sweet Coteaux du Layon, all his wines show the same commitment to quality. Our Option wines represent a good cross-section of Gilles’ production, and are the produce of two excellent, but very different vintages.

Rochefort is one of the villages allowed to attach its name to the prestigious appellation of Coteaux du Layon. Undoubtedly, the flagship wine of Gilles’ domaine is his Coteaux du Layon Rochefort. The 2005 vintage is a classic example of this noble, sweet wine, made from botrytis-affected Chenin Blanc. The botrytis concentrates the sugar and the acidity within the late-harvested grapes and produces wines, which, while being intensely sweet, have tremendous balancing acidity. Gilles’ 2005 has a delightful honeyed nose, which is followed by very concentrated, rich Christmas cake, spicy fruit character, balanced by wonderful lemon acidity. This is an amazingly versatile wine, equally well suited to rich foie gras, sweet desserts or blue cheese.

The Cuvée des Belles Mères (mother-in-laws’ wine) is also from the fantastic 2005 vintage. This is an unusual Anjou blanc as it contains almost 15% Chardonnay and only 85% Chenin Blanc. The Chenin provides soft flavours of melon and apricot, while the Chardonnay adds white peach aromas and flavours. All this succulent fruit is matched by pithy acidity. This is a wine that is light enough to be enjoyed on its own as an aperitif, and yet full-bodied enough to match white meat and poultry dishes. Although it perfect now, it will also keep for many years.

The best red wine produced in Anjou is from the appellation of Anjou-Villages, and Gilles makes one of the finest. This is a smooth blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes producing a full, fruity wine with ripe raspberry, blackcurrant and vanilla flavours. His 2004 vintage is still very youthful with a strong tannic backbone and long finish. Delicious when young and slightly chilled, it will also keep for five years or more. Try it with fuller flavoured dishes, in particular meat and pasta.