Domaine de Colonat 2005 Tasting Notes

Morgon La Roche-Briday 2003

Our exclusive wine this year comes from the exceptionally hot 2003 vintage. The growing season however was stressful as late frosts, hail and high winds all contrived to damage the vines and lower the potential yield. Then came the summer when the mercury rose inexorably and the whole of France sweltered under record temperatures - there is nobody alive today who has seen a hotter vintage. The ban des vendanges - the official date from which picking is allowed - was August 11th. Various reports suggest the last time the harvest was this early was 1757 or perhaps 1893. The grapes however ripened perfectly and were hand-picked in superb condition.

The wine is deep red, almost purple in colour and has a pungent bouquet of ripe strawberries and cherries. On the palate the texture is dense and richly fruit-laden, yet crunchy and refreshing too. It has great length and leaves the mouth with a clean, fruit-stone, almost mineral quality that begs another sip. It is a unique, delicious example of a Cru Beaujolais from the oxidised schists and granite soil of our Roche-Briday vineyard.

Despite being richer and more concentrated than normal, this is a versatile wine that can be drunk at any time, with or without food. It goes extremely well with fish and poultry yet is equally at home with casseroles, barbecued meat and cheese. Serve it very slightly chilled (not cold) during alfresco picnics - but please, do try and keep a few bottles of the 2003 to see how they develop over the next five years. Morgon is normally the Cru that keeps the longest and develops most in bottle, and delicious as it is to drink right now it would be a shame to finish it all too soon!