Beaujolais

What image do you conjure up when someone mentions Beaujolais? Some parachutist, emerging dripping wet from the Thames in the early hours of the third Thursday in November with a bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau strapped to his leg? Or maybe a plane, fast car, bicycle or helicopter attempting to be first in the bizarre annual race to provide the first sample of the year’s harvest. You may be forgiven for thinking that there’s more excitement involved in getting it here than in actually drinking the wine - young, immature and over-chilled as it is almost invariably served. But, read on! Forget the hype and razzmatazz of chilly Novembers. There is much more to Beaujolais and its wines.

Lying between Mâcon and Lyon, Le Beaujolais is, officially, the largest of the five districts of Burgundy. However, it is not only the much-hyped Beaujolais Nouveau that has given this region its own identity. Head south from Mâcon and see how the countryside and the houses change. Here is the transition from northern, chillier France to the warmer south. The flat roof tiles give way to the curved pantiles of the Mediterranean. The houses turn from grey to ochre - the colour caused by the infusion of ferrous oxide in the stones quarried for hundreds of years in the Pays d’Orée (golden country). Here is a region quite different in character, geology and climate from the rest of Burgundy. Here is the home of the Gamay grape.

Local legend has it that it was Noah who brought vines to Beaujolais. Having managed to save a single grapevine from the flood he wanted to find the best place to plant it so he could make Communion wine to offer thanks for his deliverance. He embedded the root in earth in the bone of a bird to preserve it and set off to find the most suitable terroir. In the desert his precious root began to wilt so he transferred it to the bone of a lion and it grew strong again. Noah walked on until he reached Europe. Again the vine began to wilt so he looked for a bigger bone and chose the bone of an ass. Finally, he came to the fir-topped hillsides overlooking the river Saône with its rough but mineral-rich earth and Beaujolais was born. Of course, Noah’s followers found that they could make far more wine than they would ever need for Communion, so they decided to drink some of it. The legend then became a fable: drink one or two glasses of Beaujolais and you will sing like a bird; drink another glass or two and you will feel as strong as a lion; but if you drink too much you will make an ass of yourself!

Le Beaujolais covers some 23,000 hectares over a distance of 50km to the south of Mâcon, west of the River Saône. There are three Appellations that include the name of the region: Beaujolais, Beaujolais Supérieur (supérieur meaning at least 0.5% alcohol more than basic Beaujolais) and Beaujolais Villages (the addition of the village name implying a higher quality). Over 800,000 hectolitres of wine are sold under these labels annually and it is from these Appellations that the much-vaunted Beaujolais Nouveau comes. However, above these, in both altitude and quality, are the jewels in the Beaujolais crown: the 10 crus.

Look west as you drive down the autoroute south of Mâcon. The range of tree-topped hills, between 700 and 1000 metres high, provides the elevation and east-through-southwest aspect that guarantees exposure to the very best of summer’s ripening sun. Nowhere, perhaps, can you find a better illustration of the French concept of terroir. Over millions of years Nature has sculpted the hard, metamorphic rock to provide the infinite variety of expositions and mineral-based soils which give the crus their individual characters.

St-Amour - The most romantically named, ruby red in colour with aromas of kirsch cherries and the medicinal herb reseda. Ideal with game in a sweet sauce.

Juliénas - Intense ruby in colour with aromas of peaches, red fruits and flowers. There is more clay in the soil here than in other crus so, while they can be drunk young, they will improve with age. Enjoy it with coq au vin; the locals do!

Chénas - A favourite of Louis Xlll, the Chénas vineyards stand where there were once oak forests and produce some of the most sought-after wines. Seductive and spicy, ruby-red with garnet tints, Chénas wines are rich in body with floral, woody notes and a velvety texture. A perfect match for strong cheeses or meats in a rich sauce.

Moulin-à-Vent - The windmill in nearby Romanèche-Thorins, from which this cru takes its name, has long since lost its sails but the granite subsoil retains its rich manganese deposits which give the unique flavour to what has been dubbed the ‘King of Beaujolais’. Deep ruby, with aromas of roses, iris, spice and ripe fruits, here are well-structured wines which will age well. Like fellow top-of-the-range cru, Chénas, these wines stand up well to red meat, game and strong cheeses.

Fleurie - A burst of springtime on the palate! A rich, velvety texture and an elegant mix of fruit and floral aromas of iris, violet, summer roses, peach, blackcurrant and red fruits: no wonder Fleurie is considered the most feminine of the crus. With the colour of a blushing nymph and flavours of rich red cherries, Fleurie is perfect with lamb, poultry and white meats.

Chiroubles - From the highest of the Beaujolais vineyards around a sheltered granite basin come delicately-flavoured, soft and supple wines that are bright red in colour. Exuding hints of peony, lily of the valley, iris and violets on the nose, Chiroubles wines are best appreciated on their own, but will also accompany cold meats and gently roasted poultry.

Morgon - Perhaps the most full-bodied of the crus, due to the underlying schist, Morgon is deep garnet red, with distinctive aromas of morello cherries, peaches, apricots and plums. Rich and intense, try Morgon with the richest meat dishes, game and cheese.

Régnié - The youngest of the crus (1988), Régnié produces cherry-red, supple wines with violet tints and a bouquet of redcurrants, blackberries and raspberries. A little light for main courses perhaps, but just right for terrines and hors d’oeuvres.

Côte de Brouilly - The Mont de Brouilly is almost the last outcrop of granite and schist before Beaujolais becomes low, sandy and lesser-wine country. With day-long sunshine, ripening grapes is no problem and the rich purple-red wines have glints of cherry and aromas of fresh grapes, irises and delightful red-berry fruits. A couple of years’ bottle age gives roundness and fullness to the fruity flavours which can be enjoyed long after most other Beaujolais wines. Cold meats, meat terrines and Christmas turkey with cranberry sauce are matches made in Heaven. Perhaps this was the original Communion wine?

Brouilly - The largest of the cru areas, the vineyards of Brouilly sit around the foot of the Mont de Brouilly and benefit from the minerals washed down from the soil of the Côte de Brouilly slopes. The wines are robust, delicately minerally and full-bodied with red-fruit, plum and peach aromas. Game, red meat dishes and summer BBQs are perfect partners for these fruity, gulpable wines.

Fruity, aromatic, refreshing: the wines of Le Beaujolais offer a mouth-watering range of flavours to satisfy all palates and there are no complex tannins; no hidden flavours; no having to be patient for years as the wines develop. Summer in a bottle - why wait?