Article: Growing Old Gracefully

Tasting an older vintage can be one of the great vinous pleasures. Wine has the ability to astound and sometimes confound in equal measure. Sometimes, it is the same wine tasted at different times – this is one reason why it is such a wonderful and compelling subject.

This article looks at how wines physically age and then concentrates on a few memorable older vintages from our winemakers that we have recently tasted. 

So what types of wine age well and what happens during the ageing process?

To age well a wine should have lots of fruit, tannin and colouring matter – these are collectively known as ‘extract’ – as well as a good level of acidity. White wines tend to be low in phenolics (colour and tannin) and so age less well. Grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah can age well as they have a high level of phenols.

In ideal conditions – i.e. in a relatively cool, stable temperature with low levels of light, vibration and a little humidity – the magical ageing process can take place where a process of polymerisation occurs. The tannin compounds join together and form long polymers with other molecules within the wine. When these polymers become large enough, they drop out of the wine and form deposits: the sediment we often see at the bottom of a bottle in older wines.

The resulting wine becomes softer and lighter in colour, shifting from purple to brick red over time, because of this process. It can also develop a more complex, multilayered taste and smell. Typical tertiary (developed) aromas and flavours that can develop might include minerals, animal, game, leather, liquorice and exotic spices.  The mouthfeel will also soften and become smoother and more rounded.

However, if the wine has gone beyond its peak, then the colour will be a very faded brick red or even orange/brown. The smell might be rather like a sherry (oxidised) and the fruit will taste hollow and weak. The tannins will be dry and the acidity more noticeable. In short … not very pleasant. 

Many of our winemakers make red wines which will benefit from several years’ ageing. Our Vintage Chart is designed to help Partners determine that period. Often our exclusive wines are made from old vines (vieilles vignes), which can add to the concentration and extract as they tend to produce smaller grapes with thicker skins. The winemaking techniques are in the main traditional, with little or no additives put into the wine. There may have been a period of ageing in barrel, which will help add phenolics to the wine. A meticulous approach, strong hygiene practices and anaerobic methods all add to the ability for their wines to age.

We at 3D have been fortunate to have tasted some older vintages from our winemakers recently, so we thought this would be a golden opportunity to share our tasting notes with you. 

Morgon 1979
Domaine de Colonat, Beaujolais

At Cave Ouverte in November last year some of us were lucky enough to taste some very old vintages from Bernard Collonge’s private cellar at Domaine de Colonat in Morgon. The wines were from two great vintages, 1979 and 1990, and they were a revelation.  Bernard made the point brilliantly, that Cru Beaujolais from great vintages could indeed age magnificently.

The 1979 was pale mahogany at the rim but still had a lovely ruby colour at the core. A swirl of the glass revealed a heady mix of wild red berry fruits, liquorice and violet. There was also a distinctly burgundian damp straw element too. Fascinating. In the mouth it was soft, tender even, but still fresh and alive. There was an engaging and yet surprisingly fresh mix of wild strawberry and cherry fruit underpinned by the silkiest of tannins. The flavours lingered long on the palate and for me, long in the memory too. It was a wonderful moment and we understand that this was one of just ten bottles left from his personal collection. 

Gigondas 2004
Montirius, Rhône Valley

Wine doesn’t have to be super-old to taste complex. I recently tasted our Gigondas from biodynamic producer Montirius. For the record, I tasted it on a flower day in the biodynamic calendar. It was a little reticent on the nose at first, but opened up after a short while. The palate was delicious; juicy, mineral and complex with the classic orange peel tang and spiciness of Gigondas, but with a lot of elegance and class too. 2004 was a good vintage in the Rhône and I would judge this wine to be at its peak just now.

Medium deep ruby with a hint of mahogany at the rim. Needs some aeration to open out. There is raspberry, liquorice and a slight animal whiff underpinned by orange peel tang. Touch of minerality too. The palate is sweet and ripe and has a juicy, mineral core. Blueberry, blackberry and kirsch intermingle with white pepper and spice. The tannins are wonderfully smooth and supple. Long, rather elegant finish. Lovely and eminently drinkable.

Riesling Grand Cru Brand 2000
Vignobles François Baur, Alsace

Christmas time is a period where I often open up a few older bottles in my cellar, as usually there are people around to enjoy them. A highlight for me during Christmas was a Riesling from Vignobles François Baur in Alsace. Wines from this region can age brilliantly – especially Riesling – and Pierre Baur’s Riesling from his Grand Cru vineyard, Brand, is very special indeed, as being granitic it imparts a wonderful minerality to the wine, particularly as it gets older. This is another biodynamic wine and was tasted on a fruit day; when wines are said to show their best.

The 2000 vintage had the unmistakeable Riesling nose of forecourt and minerals. Knocks your socks off. The palate is fresh and alert with lovely lingering white peach and nectarine fruit. There is also ripe apple and apricot and a streak of limey freshness. The stony minerality really shows at the back and the finish is ultra long. A delightful wine with huge amounts of terroir and character. At its peak now until 2012.

Givry rouge Premier Cru La Grande Berge 2005
Domaine Ragot, Burgundy

Recently, I re-tasted the 2005 vintage of the Ragot’s splendid Givry Premier Cru La Grande Berge. Although not a particularly ‘old’ wine, I felt when drinking it that it was now beginning to really open out and was getting somewhere near its peak. Of course 2005 was a greatBurgundy vintage, producing wines with immense colour, structure and ripe fruit.

Deep purple/ruby in colour with a scented nose of red berry fruit, cedar wood and damp earth.  The palate has freshness with lovely elegant cherry fruit, sweetness and creamy notes with a slightly herbal finish.  Really nicely balanced.  A beautifully made wine with elegance and class.  Quite light and delicate, but with a long finish.  It will drink well for further 4-6 years.