Alsace
Alsace, after Paris the second-wealthiest region of France, is an area not much visited by tourists from the UK, being situated in the far northeast with a border on the Rhine and Germany. We tend to miss it in our rush to Paris and hotter climes further south. However, it is well worth the detour as the scenery is outstanding, the vineyards and cultivated fields exquisitely set against the ancient villages and the nearby Vosges mountains. Summer weather is excellent too, being hot and dry - perfect of course for growing vines! - the area around Colmar having one of the lowest annual rainfall records in France.
Situated in the north-south Rhine corridor between the Vosges in the west and the Black Forest in the east, Alsace’s strategic position has been much fought over throughout the centuries. In fact in the 75 years following the end of the Franco-Prussian war in 1870 the region changed hands no less than five times. Reflecting its history, the Alsace plain is littered with the ruins of ancient castles and fortified towns and villages. A drive up into the Vosges is beautiful in itself, with magnificent views across the plain to the Black Forest, and on a really clear day even the Swiss Alps. Worth visiting on high are the convent of Mont-St-Odile, and the renovated castle of Haut-Königsberg.
The major city of the region is the deservedly famous Strasbourg. Centred on the confluence of the Rivers Ill and Rhine, for centuries it has been a strategically vital city for the whole region. After being the focus of the recent wars between Germany and France to control the region it was thus not surprising that after 1945 it became the catalyst for radically-improved relations between the two countries. The new Council of Europe was inaugurated here and, to further add to its importance, it is now also home to the Parliament of the European Union. Together with the Court of Human Rights, these official buildings bring a seriousness and stature to the northern part of the city.
Dominating the river-encircled city centre is the inspiring cathedral of Notre-Dame. Made from the local pink sandstone it has an enormous graceful spire that can be seen for miles around, and the main west elevation is packed with statues and ornate decoration. There are several interesting museums, the stables of the National Stud and in La Petite France you can find some beautiful traditional timbered houses - relics of the old tanning industry. A very modern addition to the city is a popular and impressive-looking tramway, which can transport you easily from one superb restaurant to another, and from one smart shop to another!
To the south of Strasbourg, and also on the River Ill, is the smaller but equally beautiful town of Colmar. Full of old half-timbered and stone buildings, there are many churches, museums, fountains, fine shops - and yet more restaurants. With a rather gentler atmosphere than the busy Strasbourg, it is a relaxing environment, and is also the closest major town to ‘our’ vineyards.
Further south - almost in Switzerland - is Mulhouse. It is not a particularly attractive city but it boasts three superb museums: the Schlumpf car museum, world famous for its collection of Bugattis; the National Railway Museum with its excellent displays of everything to do with French railways; and a fabric museum reflecting the past industries of the town. Just to the north is the Eco-Musée, an outdoor heritage museum with working examples from ancient Alsace farm and village life.
With the majestic city of Strasbourg dominating the north, head upstream to Colmar, Mulhouse and Switzerland; roughly parallel, and west of this line is the Route du Vin that meanders gently through the vineyards and villages from Marlenheim in the north to Thann in the south. You really need a guide book to properly explore them all, but don’t miss Riquewihr - the best of the lot, but often the busiest.
Passing through 13,000 hectares of vines and 50 Grands Crus the wine route is a perfect anchor for your exploration of a wonderful world that teems with outstandingly pretty villages, all of them full of delightful half-timbered houses, fountains, churches, restaurants, flowers, and last, but by no means least, winemakers.
Alsace is the only wine region in France to label its wines primarily with the name of the grape used to make them. Of the seven varieties - Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, and Pinot Noir - only the first four are allowed Grand Cru status. Over 90% of production is white, and further enhancing the lusciousness of the best whites in good years are small quantities of late-harvest Vendange Tardive and Sélection de Grains Nobles.
Alsace has the most complex geological terroir of all the great wine regions of France and when the Appellation Contrôlée system was being set up after the Second World War it was recognised that because of this amazing variety, the number of Grands Crus would, by default, have to be much higher than normal. This seemingly almost unlimited choice is potentially confusing, but in general, the basic rules of buying wine from recognised winemakers apply, and most will have some vines in a Grand Cru area.
This, of course, applies to our own winemakers, Pierre Baur and André Gruss, whose villages of Turckheim and Eguisheim are roughly halfway down our wine route. Both domaines are long-established family enterprises, and their range of high quality wines extensive. Tastings here demand great patience and sometimes fortitude, as so many wines are served, with different vintages and lieux-dits providing even more variety. Deciding on who should drive is not the only difficult choice when faced with so much superb wine!
The Baur family live in the stunning village of Turckheim, overlooked by the slopes of the prime Grand Cru Brand vineyard - and the storks who nest on the old gatehouse. Based in the centre of the even more picturesque Eguisheim, André Gruss and his family have vines in their two local Grands Crus of Eichberg and Pfersigberg (can you say it?). Eguisheim boasts a medieval circular rampart that was once the outer fortification of the village and is now a charming cobbled route surrounded by ancient half-timbered houses. And, of course, Eguisheim also has a stork’s nest - on the church tower!
Complementing the fine wines is a gastronomic tradition to match, and as Alsace boasts one of the highest concentrations of Michelin-starred restaurants in France, there is no shortage of rich and tasty foods to accompany your wine. I recommend you try the local foie gras, tarte flambée (thin base pizza), Baeckeoffe (hotpot), choucroute garnie (pork, sausages and sauerkraut), and finish with any one of a myriad of superb desserts.
It is clear that to taste all the wines, try all the foods, do all the shopping, and see all the sights, you will need to return time and again. We do!
Paul Mellor