Domaine du Vieux Puits

When you reach Mâcon, on the Autoroute du Soleil, you realise you are no longer in 'le Nord'. This is where the 'Midi' begins. Drab, flat-tiled roofs gradually give way to that evocative symbol of the south, pantiles. And yet, turn west up into the, at first, gentle hills parallel to the motorway, and the timber-balconied, flower-bedecked houses could be models for a Swiss chocolate box. This apparent identity crisis is totally in keeping with the roller-coaster geology that flows like great waves to the west, culminating in two spectacular cliffs, Vergisson and Solutré.

Domaine du Vieux Puits is in Vergisson, one of five villages which make up the famous appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé. It lies about 7 miles due west of Mâcon, and sits comfortably astride the saddle between the two great rocks of Vergisson and Solutré. The soil here is rich in the alkaline clay so loved by the Chardonnay grape. Its best vineyards are about 1200ft above sea level and face northwest, thus making the wines from Vergisson more refreshing by adding that extra dash of acidity, so vital to the balance of good wine.

The Drouin family have been winemakers in Vergisson for three generations. Thierry and Corinne Drouin farm 15 acres of vines: 10 for Pouilly-Fuissé, and 5 for Mâcon, both red and white. Vergisson wines are generally little known in the UK, so we were delighted to read in an article by Michael Schuster in WINE magazine: "The number of quality grower-bottlers from Vergisson has increased significantly over the past decade. To date the quality of its wines has remained relatively unsung, yet to judge by what is now available, Vergisson can claim to make wines that are every bit as good as the best from Fuissé."